What is Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a naturally occurring chemical that is typically extracted from sugar cane and is part of the chemical group known as Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA's). As well as its natural sources, it can be chemically synthesised in a reaction between chloroacetic acid and sodium hydroxide.



What is glycolic acid used for?



Glycolic acid is found in many skincare and anti-ageing beauty products. It has a high level of acidity and is very soluble. These properties make it an ideal exfoliant for penetrating the skin and removing the damaged outer layers. Because of its high acidity, glycolic acid is not used in its pure form, but is instead mixed with other chemicals and substances which help to moisturise and enrich the fresh layers of skin. As a general rule, concentration levels of glycolic acid in skincare products do not exceed 10%.



It is however used in far greater concentrations as a ‘chemical peel', which literally burns away layers of skin.

Glycolic acid is also used in many anti-wrinkle serums and can be used to treat a range of skin conditions, including acne.



How does it work?



Because glycolic acid is soluble it is able to penetrate below the outer layer of dead skin, the epidermis, and reach the fresh skin underneath. Once there, its acidity corrodes the bonds that hold the dead skin in place, revealing the layer of newer smoother skin beneath. Due to this thorough exfoliation, the skin is also better able to then absorb moisturising agents that replenish and restore the skin.



Precautions



Many people in the skincare and medical industries have expressed concerns over the use of glycolic acid in high concentrations. One safety concern is that users of glycolic acid skincare products and chemical peels may be at greater risk from harmful UV rays emitting from the sun, and hence more likely to develop skin cancer and other harmful skin conditions. Glycolic acid should only ever be used under expert medical advice and supervision for any of these treatments. It is highly recommended that strong suntan lotion be applied if going out in strong sun following any glycolic acid treatment.



Use of products containing glycolic acid may result in rashes and irritation to the skin in some cases.



It should also be remembered that glycolic acid is, as the name suggests, an acid, and so must be treated with the same safety precautions and respect as other chemicals in the same group. High concentration formulas should only be applied by qualified skincare specialists and dermatologists. It is recommended that products containing glycolic acid should not be used on children.



What skincare and beauty products contain glycolic acid?



• Anti-wrinkle creams

• Body lotions

• Facial cleansers

• Exfoliants

• Moisturisers

• Anti-ageing lotions